Everest Climbing Season Begins Amid Harsh Conditions; Record-Breaking Attempts Underway

Hamrakura
Published 2025 May 10 Saturday

Kathmandu: The 2024 Everest spring climbing season has officially begun with significant challenges, including heavy snow, exposed rocks, and extreme cold, complicating rope-fixing efforts on the world's highest peak.

According to Lakpa Sherpa, expedition leader and Managing Director of ATK Expedition Company, deep snow and exposed black stones, especially in the Khumbu Icefall, have made it difficult to secure ropes and ladders. “Due to thick snow, rope fixing has become very difficult this year,” said Sherpa from the base camp.

Despite these obstacles, a seven-member Sherpa team led by Ashok Lama successfully reached the summit on Friday at 5 p.m., officially opening the route for other climbers. The Department of Tourism confirmed that the installation of ropes to the summit marks the formal start of the 2024 Everest expedition.

Director of the Department of Tourism, Leeladhar Awasthi, stated that with favorable weather, the first phase of climbing is expected to be highly successful. A key summit window is anticipated from May 11 to 15, with a potential second window from May 19 to 24.

Over 55 climbers from ATK Expedition are heading toward Everest and Lhotse this season. The Sherpa team, responsible for rope fixing, faced a 14-day delay in reaching the fourth camp due to adverse weather conditions. Only seven out of 16 Sherpas assigned to the task successfully reached the peak.

Sherpa climbers are currently stationed at camps III and IV to manage oxygen and logistics, while climbers are ascending from base camp and acclimatizing for summit pushes. Patrol and management efforts are also underway in the third and fourth camps.

This year’s expedition features several record-breaking attempts. Kami Rita Sherpa, a world record holder, is aiming for his 31st summit of Everest. Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa is attempting to climb Everest four times in just 20 days, while Sanu Sherpa plans to break his own record for climbing mountains above 8,000 meters.

Nepal's adventure tourism officials say the successful opening of the climbing route sends a positive signal for the industry. Everest Climbing Association General Secretary Shiva Bahadur Sapkota emphasized the importance of strong management and collaboration between stakeholders.

Extreme cold at the base camp—reaching minus 20 degrees Celsius—has not deterred climbers, who are busy training and ascending toward higher camps. Mingma Sherpa, president of Sabane Summit Treks, expects a dynamic climbing season ahead, citing favorable weather.

The Everest Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) has announced that it will remove ladders from the Khumbu Icefall by May 29 due to increasing rock exposure caused by climate change.

Climbers have received 75-day climbing permits, and the average Everest expedition lasts around 40 days. Most climbers descend to base camp within two days of summiting.



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